Week 27, 2003
\nQ) My husband is a musician who has begun selling his CDs over the Internet. \u00a0 We
\nare making “promotional” quantities, maybe ten at a time and trying to produce high quality CD labels (using Avery stationery products) for these small quantities of CDs.<\/p>\n
We achieve good results with our H-P black and white printer, but very disappointing results with our H-P color inkjet printer, which is five or more years old. \u00a0 Is it possible to produce good quality color CD labels at home? \u00a0 Can you recommend a type or brand of printer and media to produce them? \u00a0 Finally, do you have any suggestions as to where we might get our small quantities of CDs shrink-wrapped?<\/p>\n
-Cecily Franklin, O’Hara Township, PA<\/p>\n
A) It is certainly possible to produce good quality labels at home. \u00a0 The weak link in your system is your old printer. \u00a0 Older inkjets are not optimized for producing photographic quality. \u00a0 \u00a0 Inkjet printers have come a long way in the past five years and are now capable of professional quality photographic results. \u00a0<\/p>\n
Among professional photographers, Canon and Epson inkjet printers are the overwhelming choice. \u00a0 Both brands have their proponents; I have owned both and now use Canon exclusively, finding the photographic print quality and ease of operation to be superior. \u00a0 Your results may be different, but suffice it to say if you get a six-color inkjet printer from either manufacturer you will be very pleased with the results. \u00a0 Some good choices would be the Canon S820 at $129, or the Epson Stylus Photo 820 for $99.<\/p>\n
I use Fellowes Neato Photo Quality Matte Finish CD labels with my Canon and get great results. \u00a0 If you use these labels, be sure to select the “matte finish” paper setting when you make your print.<\/p>\n
As for shrink-wrap, an online search for “shrink wrap material” will yield many sources. \u00a0 You can buy it and apply it yourself with a blow drier.<\/p>\n
Be careful selling your labeled CDs. \u00a0 Some devices, such as in-dash car CD changers, generate significant heat internally and over time it can cause a stick-on label to separate from the disc. \u00a0 At the least, the disc will not play properly; at the worst, it will ruin the CD changer. \u00a0 \u00a0 Be sure to include a caution notice on those CD labels when you design them, “for tray loading players only”.<\/p>\n
Q) I just bought a new receiver and new speakers but haven’t wired them yet. \u00a0 There’s a lot of stuff out there. \u00a0 It’s very confusing. \u00a0 Any recommendations?<\/p>\n
Todd Heimbaugh, State College, PA<\/p>\n
A) There is no need to be confused by speaker wire. \u00a0 There is a lot of marketing hype and pseudo-science thrown around in the attempt to sell expensive wire, and a lot of times it succeeds. \u00a0 Some people even believe they hear a difference when they use it. \u00a0 However, in scientifically controlled listening tests, it has been shown time and time again that listeners cannot reliably distinguish between expensive wire and ordinary 16-gauge lamp cord. \u00a0 (Lamp cord is also called zip cord.) \u00a0<\/p>\n
You can get 16-gauge lamp cord at stores like Home Depot for 25 cents per foot or less. \u00a0 If each speaker run is going to be more than twenty-five feet, use 12-gauge. \u00a0 \u00a0 As a rule of thumb, determine how many feet of wire you will need, then multiply it by 1.6 to get your final number. \u00a0 So, if you think you need 40 feet, buy 64 feet. \u00a0 It’s funny how that extra wire gets used up navigating the room and your furniture.<\/p>\n
One side of the wire is ridged so you can match polarity between the speakers and receiver.<\/p>\n